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The Grain of Truth
Rice farming, in a span of a few decades, has transformed into a highly commercialized industry. Farmers now have to compete with Multi-National Companies (MNCs), who want a piece of the pie as well. Armed with financial and technological resource, they storm into the rice industry. The presence of machines and high-yielding, high-tech equipment introduced by MNCs has placed rural farmers in marginalized positions. The farmers are unable to compete as they desperately lack the resource and finances, hence leaving them to pick up only the crumbs of the pie. Not to forget, farmers make up a substantial amount of the population in Southeast Asia!
Yet it is unfair to reduce all subsidies, what would happen to the farmers that really need the help from the government? Previously at the mercy of loan sharks, farmers can now borrow from state-run banks at low interest. But they still have to pay for fertiliser and pesticide. If they are hit by floods or drought, farmers will plunge deeper into debt. Even with a good harvest, many farmers are still at the mercy of the middlemen, who buy from them cheaply. The above-mentioned are just basic problems. Farmers cannot rise above poverty if they cannot control the market. They need technological know-how to boost rice yields, and marketing skills to compete with global traders. What happens if farmers abandon their rice fields and look for other jobs? The country will be in grave danger if we do not help and protect our rice farmers. A large number of rural people have already left their farmland to work in factories. Why do back-breaking work on the farm when they can earn more money sewing shirts or assembling cars?Therefore it is essential that the government have a long-term plan for the future of our rice farmers. To keep them on the farms, the government must ensure that they get a good price for their produce. An insurance scheme should also help them cope with natural disasters.
Besides its role as a affordable dietary staple, rice functions as a livelihood for countless Southeast Asians. Rice production is an important source of income for Southeast Asia, primarily Thailand, Vietnam and Burma. (David B. Johnston, 1981) There is a significant increase in demand for rice, not only within Southeast Asia, but throughout the globe. With the increasing affluence of Asian culture, rice has come to make its name as a household staple in many parts of the world. Rice has evolved in significance over centuries, yet it continues to hold such importance to the structure of civilization today. As such, we can no longer neglect the role of rice and its functions in society today.
We say that we cannot live without rice. Literally, there are Southeast Asians who cannot. Rice farmers depend on the demand for rice to make a living. Cultivation of rice is their primary source of income. Majority of these farmers come from the rural areas of many undeveloped nations like Thailand and Vietnam. Export of rice contributes to a large portion of the country’s Gross Domestic Product(GDP). Global rice production goes up to more than 550 million tones annually! The demand for rice comes mainly from Asians, as rice is a staple food here in Southeast Asia. From these demand arises the need for supply, which is substantiated by rice farmers, trading companies and distributors. This chain is vitally linked together by the large consumption rate.
Another famous form of rice agriculture is the formation of rice terraces, commonly found in hilly areas around the region like Philippines and Bali. The crucial aspect of terraces is the maintenance and upkeep of the land each family own, despite the relatively small size of each individual plot of land. If not carefully handled, terraces will tend to slide downhill and it will most definitely be difficult for the farmers to start all over again somewhere else. (Piper, 1993)
Moving on, traditions do not only evolve from the history of art and craft forms but also from religion, myths and folklores. In effect, these result in the creation of ceremonies that both make use of and celebrate the culture of rice. Because the range of myths and folklores conjured over the long Southeast Asian history of rice is so extensive, we will only attempt to examine a few of these and find out whether there is direct or indirect connections between what Piper terms as ‘customary beliefs’ (Piper, Jacqueline M., 1993) and the countries of SEA.
hatever staple they are planting, in many Southeast Asian agricultural communities. In Central Java, the Rice Goddess is known as Dewi Sri, the daughter of The Raja of Mataram, Lombok, and eventually ended up as a python which blessed the rice harvests of the farmers by feeding on rice-field pests. (Piper, Jacqueline M., 1993) Similarly, the famous Western Javanese rice myth stems from an ancient Sudanese poem called Wawatjan Sulandjana, which births forth the name Sri that remains the Rice Goddess’s name till today. The variation in the Western Javanese myth lies in the story of the goddess who is the foster daughter of the god Guru. After her tragic death and burial, her body turns into the first rice plant. (Josselin de Jong, P.E., 1965) Much further away in Thailand, Mae Posop is also known as the Rice Goddess, who “gives her body and soul to everyone”. (Gomez, Kwanchai A., 2001) As we can see, the varying versions of such ancient myths in Southeast Asia still contain a common meaning and belief that be it the Dewi Sri or Mae Posop, Rice Goddesses are pictured to be self-sacrificing and their bodies are “given” to the farmers in order for rice and a good harvest to be blessed on.
Another common believe in what is called the “rice soul” further draws parallel between agricultural rites in the different parts of the Southeast Asian region. We shall begin by looking at the Iban farmers of Sarawak. Other than the traditional rice that is sown for sustainance and economic purposes, they grow two specific types of ritual rice; the padi pun (sacred rice) and padi sangking (rice used for secondary ceromonials. The padi pun is unique to every Iban family in the community because each plants a different type of it, differentiated by characteristics of the rice such as the length, colour and so on. Traditionally, and even till today, the padi pun is planted in the “sacred heart” of the farm which is thereby surrounded and “protected” by the padi sanking. Interestingly, the farmers plant all types of rice across the field in the single continuous path that should not be broken so as to ensure that, according to Piper, “the souls of the rice a woman has harvested must follow her and not be permitted to stray or next year’s crop will be poorer”. Likewise, another reference to the soul of rice belongs to a traditional belief by the Malays during harvesting that “the Soul of Rice is ritually led from the rice field to the house of the owner of the field”, where a medicine man “chants to various spirits”, in particular to two named “Dang Pok” and Dang Melini”. (Josselin de Jong, P.E., 1965)
such as felling, firing and dibbling allocated to men and the women are often allocated jobs which require them to plant behind the men as the move along, and mostly in a low, bending position. Furthermore, “young men may refuse to participate in tasks like weeding which are seen as ‘women’s work’”. (Piper, Jacqueline M., 1993) It is almost exactly the same traditional planting ritual with the Brou people of North-east Cambodia, where if a particular family has no men, they must enlist the help of a relative to do the job of dibbling as it is strictly a men-only affair. The women here are expected to move across the field with a “hollow bamboo tube closed at one end” to “cover the seeds as they pass”, and all done in a (you guessed it!) bend low position. (Piper, Jacqueline M.,1993) However, while traditional roles are carved out and adhered to in the agricultural communities (men do jobs that builds up prestige for their families while women handle most of the domestic rice sowing affairs of the household), the role of the women are not insignificant as compared to the men. Women have extensive knowledge of the rice and the varieties they plant and are thus indispensable to the cultivation process. Certain beliefs even elevate the position of women. For instance, the Iban men are not allowed to handle or even touch the sacred rice out of respect and this is only handled by women.

Let's now take a gastronomical journey, to explore the versatility of rice as an ingredient, and how the variations of a particular rice dish can illustrate the distinctiveness and connectivity of cultures. There are various methods to cooking rice, from boiling to steaming to stir-frying. Within each method, there are also variations, some of which are native to certain areas in SEA. Take steaming for example. Modernized households in Kuala Lumpur may use electronic rice cookers to cook their rice, while their more rural counterparts in Kelantan use bamboo rice cookers. In this respect, we can see that even the method of cooking can demonstrate differences in culture and social status. With Singapore being a relatively modernized state, most of us may not be familiar with the method of bamboo rice cooking. In a nutshell, the rice is wrapped in a banana leaf that is then stuffed into a bamboo chamber, which is placed upright in hot coal. The chamber is filled with water, which will boil when the coal heats up. Alternatively, the rice can be directly stuffed into the bamboo in the absence of banana leaves. Beside the versatility of rice with regards to the methods of cooking it, the dishes with rice as a main ingredient are boundless. Today, we’ll focus our attention on rice dumplings, a dish that can be found in many part of SEA, but varies between countries and cultures.


In many Southeast Asian languages, ‘to eat’ is often synonymous with ‘to eat rice’, and examples would be that of “tarn kao” in Thai and “ngajengang” in Balinese. This strongly suggests that rice is of relatively high importance in the region. During dire times, rice is often the only sustenance of the needy. When parents recount about how difficult life was back then, the contents of their daily meals will frequently be mentioned. Rice and soy sauce. Because of its long shelf life and high energy provision, rice was often the choice of food for many households. There is no doubt that rice is of great importance to many Southeast Asian households, especially those of lower income groups. However, has the importance of rice been declining with globalization and modernization? It is no longer uncommon for someone to follow a “low-carb” diet in a bid to shed those extra pounds. And with a rice grain being 82% carbohydrate, it is often the first item struck off the food list of dieters. But even if a decline is occuring, such a decline would be slow as many Southeast Asian countries are still relatively undeveloped and hence are not yet exposed to the largely Americanized dieting fads. As such, rice can still be considered to be of high importance to the region as a source of food.